Located along Rama IV Road, not far from Sukhumvit’s expatriate enclave yet worlds apart from the district’s glamour and luxury, Khlong Toei Market is regarded as Bangkok’s largest wholesale market for fresh food.
It is an endless maze of tunnels and narrow lanes where stalls follow one after another, and fresh produce — meat and fish above all — is processed on the spot. For this reason, some sections of the market appear rather bloodstained.
The name Khlong Toei (“Canal of the Pandan Trees”) refers to the strong fragrance of pandan leaves, widely used in Thai desserts and to freshen the air.
Today, as of September 2022, the canal on which the market stands looks very different — the result of years of waste and runoff from market activities, which have polluted the waters with a foul, stagnant smell. Back in January 2010, CNN described it as one of the most authentic markets in Bangkok — and also as a place best avoided when drunk.
And while Khlong Toei Market may not be charming in the traditional sense, it compels one to open their eyes and offers an experience of genuine Thai authenticity.
The project Beast Within seeks to explore precisely this dimension of the market: its raw visual openness and Thai authenticity — without prejudice and without moral filter. At the same time, it aims to investigate the deeper truth of the place, offering a point of reflection on the scale and ethics of today’s global demand for food.
